Different jewelers specialize in different settings, It takes a sharp eye and attention to detail as well as patience to be a setter. Here are the different types of settings and their benefits.
Prong Set: The most commonly used setting style where gold tips are placed around a stone and bent toward it to hold it in place. Prongs should be in a size according to the size of stone. The larger the stone, the taller and thicker in width the prongs should be. The smaller tinier stones used to accent a piece can also be set in prongs, these usually can hold with two prongs facing each other. Consider the famous Tiffany Set, which is a diamond set with six prongs around. Of course the more prongs you place around a stone the safer, however, prong set rings should be checked every now and then to make sure they're not worn out. We've saved customers from being very close to loosing their big carat diamond because they had neglected to fix worn out prongs or prongs that had been pulled away from the stone. So it's very important to have your rings schedueled for an inspection every three months, depending also how often you wear a particular ring.
Chanel Set: often found in bands, eternity bands, bracelets, engagement rings. In this type of setting, a channel is carved into the metal surface, creating two walls each side of the row of diamonds. The top of the walls are flush with the top of the diamonds. The channel is slightly smaller than the diamond size and therefore a cut is required on each side of walls to tuck the diamonds in and this is how they are held in place.
Bezel Set: The stone is held by a wall risen around the diamond and the top of the wall is hammered to slightly cover the stone and hold it in place. You can also find half bezel setting which is the same technique except the wall doesn't go all around but rather created half circles each side of stone. This way you see more of the diamond.
Tension Set: This setting is the least safe however it is the type that showcases the stone the most. Two walls with a space between that is smaller than the stone, hold the stone in place with pressure that is created. The stone in a tension set has no other support, no under bezel or surface. Often seen in man's rings.
Pave setting: Pave style is when a cluster of diamonds invade the surface of a ring, all you see is a multitude of diamonds shining. Hole cuts are made where diamonds go and special tools carve prongs out of the surface of the metal to hold the stones in place. Occasionally the carved out prongs will wear off and a stone will fall, smaller stones are less expensive to replace. In general, you should take care not to wear your rings when washing dishes, showering, at the beach or gardening; this way you will reduce the chances of wearing off the settings too fast. They will eventually weaken and need inspection.
They might just require a little tightening, so don't put off a visit to your jeweler.
Natalie C. Hunkiar
Owners of Jewels Quest,fine jewelry
http://www.shopjq.com
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